The Jeans Redesign

Creating solutions for a world where clothes are kept in use

For decades, jeans have been at the heart of countless fashion collections. However, they are no exception to the fashion industry’s take-make-waste approach. Making jeans requires large amounts of resources, such as pesticides, water, and energy, and the way they’re designed and constructed makes them difficult to remake and recyclerecycleTransform a product or component into its basic materials or substances and reprocessing them into new materials. after use.

Redesigning this iconic fashion staple is the perfect starting point on the journey towards a circular economy for fashion, where products are designed to be:

Used more
Made to be made again
Made from safe and recycled or renewable inputs

What is The Jeans Redesign?

The Jeans Redesign (2019-2023) demonstrated how jeans can be designed and made for a circular economy.

The Jeans Redesign guidelines - developed with input from 80 experts across industry, academia, and NGOs, encouraged leading brands, mills, and manufacturers to transform the way jeans are designed and made.

The first redesigned jeans using the guidelines were brought to market in June 2021 and in 2023, 100+ organisations from more than 25 countries across the industry created redesigned jeans. Project participants moved beyond theoretical discussions, learnt by doing, tested new solutions, and overcame innovation gaps.

Shared learnings and transparency were an important part of the project. Participants were required to publicly update on their progress and to show the methods they used to meet the guidelines. In 2021, the guidelines ‘minimum bar’ was raised to increase the level of ambition and drive the industry forward.

The project’s Insights Report (2021-2023), revealed the solutions, innovation gaps and remaining barriers faced by participants.

Download the Insights Report 2021-2023

The Jeans Redesign Insights Report 2021-2023 is available in: English

An infographic stating that 72% of participants have made fabric or jeans that meet guidelines. 1.5 million pairs of redesigned jeans were brought to market by brands in 2023, 3x more than 2021. 11% of brands redesigned 40% of their jeans portfolio with some reaching 100%.

1. Circular design can become the norm

72% of participants overcame design challenges to make jeans that met the guidelines, with one-in-nine participating brands redesigning at least 40% of their jeans portfolio to meet the guidelines. The project demonstrates how circular design can become the norm across the fashion industry.

An infographic stating 'Techincal capability exists for organic content, rivet elimination, safe chemicals and alternative to conventional electroplating. Up to 87% of post-consumer recycled content was incorporated into participant jeans, while still meeting the durability guidelines. Limiting non-cellulose-based fibres to 2% remains a material innovation challenge to deliver styles and comfort that appeal to customers, including jeans with stretch.'

2. The solution pathways are clear

More than a third of participants reported applying the principles of circular design beyond jeans to other garments - including jackets, shirts, jumpers, tops, bags and hats. Proving that many circular design solutions are no longer a technical capability question, but a design choice.

Infographic stating 'Participants continue to report making investments and paying premiums to bring redesigned products to life. Increased public commitments to source a minimum percentage of post-consumer recycled content sends demand signals crucial for stimulating the development of infrastructure. 69% of brands reported having ongoing circular business models in place, including 29% offering resale and 24% offering repair services.'

3. Without systems change, the progress that has been made to redesign products will not be fully realised

We need to close the loop. More than two thirds of participants have an ongoing service or business model in place to keep jeans in use. Models such as rental, resale, repair and remaking, keep garments in use at their highest level - unlocking these models at scale will require a radical system change.

Jeans are just the start

infographic showcasing the journey of circular jeans

From 2021-2023, leading brands in the fashion industry redesigned and transformed over 1.5 million pairs of jeans into garments that are more durable, have more transparent sourcing of materials, are easier to recycle, and are made using safe materials and processes.

But jeans are just the start. Participants are increasingly applying circular economy principles to other garments, proving circular design can become the norm.

Industry and policymakers can take learnings and apply them to all garments. Then we must not only reimagine the products of the future, but also redesign the services, business models, and supply chains to deliver them and ensure our clothes are kept in use.

“
Jeans were always intended to be the start of this journey. By redesigning products so they are fit for a circular economycircular economyA systems solution framework that tackles global challenges like climate change, biodiversity loss, waste, and pollution. It is based on three principles, driven by design: eliminate waste and pollution, circulate products and materials (at their highest value), and regenerate nature., we are making progress. But to truly challenge conventional linear models at scale we must go beyond redesigning products. We need to redesign the services, supply chains, and business models that deliver garments and keep them in use. The path forward is clear. It’s time to step up the pace and scale of progress.
- Jules Lennon, Fashion Initiative Lead, Ellen MacArthur Foundation